DIY MAKEUP: FRECKLES… FIGHT ‘EM or FLAUNT ‘EM?

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Freckles, beauty marks, call them what you will – we all have them.  There’s at least one on everyone’s body, and some of us are even freckly from head to toe.  They can be an interesting and unique trait that requires a little extra TLC from a makeup artist.  And when freckles are involved in my line of work, the first question to ask is: should I conceal or reveal?  Of course, the answer is that every case is situational and depends on the needs of client.

FIGHT ‘EM

If you need to cover up freckles, first make the necessary preparations by moisturizing and priming the skin.  Use a medium to full coverage foundation – that way the consistency is thick and potent enough to mask or camouflage the appearance of freckles.  Choose a foundation color that matches the skin on the model’s neck, so everything will blend together nicely.

Try a stippling brush or a small wedge sponge to apply the foundation.  Either of those tools will create a more matte finish and deposit the foundation in a way that will cover and conceal the freckles to make them appear nearly gone.  (Use concealer to cover suborn freckles or blemishes if necessary)

Once the foundation is applied and blended, and the appearances of freckles are faint to gone, use a pressed finishing powder to set the foundation.  Using pressed powder instead of translucent loose powder creates extra coverage, and results in an extra matte finish.  That way, the skin’s natural oils won’t break up the foundation and expose the freckles.  Also, make sure your pressed powder of choice is not translucent, but matches the shade of the skin tone and foundation you’re working with.

After all this is completed, step back and analyze the whole face to make sure the foundation and powder blend well, and that the freckles are near gone to the naked eye.  Once that is achieved, you’re ready to complete your makeup look.  Freckles be gone!

Depending on the person’s skin color and skin tone, some shades of freckles are harder to camouflage than others.  For model photography, that’s usually okay and post work like Photoshop editing is done to get rid of remaining imperfections.  So as long as they’re about 90% covered, I’m satisfied.

FLAUNT ‘EM

On the other hand, why hide what nature has blessed us with?  Freckles are makeup to some extent and can be part of the look, but the model still needs the rest of her makeup done, right?  So how can we put makeup on her face without hiding her naturally freckly-freckles?

It’s actually simpler than covering them up.  As always, start by prepping the skin with moisturizer and adding primer to the face.  But in this scenario, use a foundation that has lightweight and/or sheer coverage.  The lighter the consistency, the easier it will be for the freckles to peek through the foundation.

Use a fatter or flat foundation brush and whisk on the foundation lightly over the face.  The lighter the pressure, the less coverage there will be on the skin, creating an almost “no makeup” finish.

You still want to select a foundation color that matches the skin color/tone of the neck to achieve a perfect blend of color.  To set this sheer foundation, use a translucent loose powder. Translucent is another word for “see through” and it still sets the makeup, but without covering or concealing like pressed power will.  A big powder brush can be used to lightly puff some translucent powder on her face, mostly in just the T-Zone (forehead, nose, chin and cheekbones).

When it’s all done, take a step back and scan the whole face to make sure the freckles are still seen through our foundation.  Your model should be just as freckly as before, but with a little more balance.  It’s as easy as that.

Until next time, keep it classy!

Sabrina DiGiovanni, Beauty Editor

Featured Image: Michael Anthony Photography